laser tag ammunition indicator
This is the first iteration of the ammunition indicator for the laser gun. Ten green LEDs indicate the percentage of ammunition left before reload is necessary. Every five pulls of the trigger button cause one LED to turn off resulting in a total of 50 shots per imaginary clip. I chose 50 after a some quick internet research on AK47 banana clips. It turns out they hold, you guessed it, 50 rounds. After all rounds are depleted, a press of the reload button turns the LEDs back on one at a time with a half second pause between each.
note: I had no buttons. Wires are used in their place, but pull down resistors are still present.
Here are a few photos of the Laser Tag system in progress. I just finished the lens assembly and an initial receiver module for testing.
This is the mounting board for the infrared LED that will act as the ‘laser’ in this laser tag system. A bright red LED is shown here instead of the IR LED. In order to focus the beam correctly it is necessary to measure the distance from the lens with visible red light and to then replace the red LED with the IR LED. To make the mount, simply trace the end of your pvc tube on a piece of wood, cut it out, and sand it down until it fits snuggly inside.
A double convex lens is mounted on the end of a 1 and 1/4 inch pvc tube. This will refract the IR light into a beam to increase the range of the laser gun.
A connector is fitted on the end of the pvc tube to protect the lens from dust and scratches.
The mount and LED are inserted into the opposite end of the tube so that the LED faces the lens. By adjusting the placement inside the tube, you can focus the visibe red light into a crisp circle.
This is the completed lens assembly. Positive and negative leads are drawn through the back of the tube.
By connecting an IR receiver module to an LED, you can test the range and accuracy of your lens assembly.
Because IR receivers only respond to IR light flashed at a certain frequency, we have to connect the IR LED leads to a microcontroller in order to control the flash. Here the positive wire is connected to pin 13 on the arduino and the negative connects THROUGH A RESISTOR! to ground.
I made this power supply interface for my robot. I needed more amperage than a 9 volt battery could supply but did not want to ruin my 9volt to barrel jack wire. Solution? Crimp another 9v clip backwards to the battery and click the two clips together!
So far I have tested the IR gun at 30 feet and it works amazingly well. It will work at greater distances but I have yet to test them while measuring accurately. Sunlight is not interfering in the slightest and the beam angle is wide enough to make hits realistic but not so narrow as to make it impossible to shoot your enemy.